Natural oils, such as coconut oil, shea butter oil, and olive oil, have been used for skin care and hair care for centuries. Generation after generation has touted them for various moisturizing, protective, and antibacterial qualities.
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But which oils should you use, and how? What’s the difference between them?
Read on for more information about how natural oils can help give you radiant, healthy skin.
Rajani Katta, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and voluntary clinical faculty member at the Baylor College of Medicine and the McGovern Medical School at the University of Texas Houston, says that we have “centuries of experience” to show that it is uncommon for natural oils — including coconut oil, olive oil, and sunflower seed oil — to cause allergic reactions.
“I think one of the reasons that natural oils have really come back into prominence is because there has been a search for moisturizers that A) don’t cause allergic reactions, B) don’t have as many of the chemicals that trigger allergic reactions, and C) are cost effective,” she says.
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Another factor to consider before using natural oils is how soon you intend to be in the sun after applying them. “If you are using them on the face, I would be definitely very careful,” Katta explains. “Because they are oils, it’s an intensified effect of using radiation on facial skin.”
One way to avoid sun damage when using natural oils is to apply them differently at different times of the day. In the morning, consider applying a thin layer to your skin (it should be absorbed in about 15 minutes, Katta says). At night, when you aren’t exposed to the sun, feel free to apply oil liberally. You’ll know you’ve applied too much if your skin isn’t absorbing it, Katta notes.
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“When you’re applying natural oils, you really have to make a distinction between the face and the body,” Katta says. “I don't tend to recommend these types of oils for acne, just because oils could clog your pores and make acne worse. But for that same person who has acne on their face, coconut oil would be a great moisturizer for their body.”
Finding out how much oil suits your needs may require a little trial and error. While there is no research regarding the amount of oil that should be used as a moisturizer, your skin will tell you when enough is enough. If it feels too greasy, that means it hasn’t all been absorbed.
Many people have olive oil, coconut oil, or sunflower seed oil in their kitchen cabinet. But can the same oils you cook with be applied to your face?
Not always, says Katta. For example, you can use coconut oil for both cooking and beauty purposes (if you cook with it, be mindful that it is high in saturated fat), but you might use a different type of coconut oil in each scenario.
“The kind of coconut oil that you typically cook with is refined and has a higher smoke point [than unrefined coconut oil], so it’s a little bit better for cooking at higher temperatures, but in order to refine it, you may be taking out some of the chemicals that may actually have beneficial properties,” she says. For that reason, Katta recommends extra-virgin, cold-pressed, organic, unrefined oils for hair and skin care, versus more refined products.
Oils like tea tree, argan, and lemon oil are more likely to produce allergic reactions than olive and coconut oil, Katta says. “Tea tree oil has developed a reputation for being a great sort of antibacterial, antifungal ingredient. It does have those properties, but you really have to use it very carefully,” Katta says.
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She warns that in some cases, the effects of tea tree oil on skin could be dangerous. “I would never use it on open skin, because I have seen people develop allergic reactions when they were using it on cracks in the skin from eczema, for example.”
“You have to dilute them quite a bit,” she says. “You might use a couple of drops in a carrier, like coconut oil, and for most people, that would probably be fine,” she says.
Katta cautions that some oils may be more likely to cause negative side effects than others. “If you have sensitive skin or eczema, I’ve seen a lot of reactions to things such as oil of cloves, oil of cinnamon, lavender oil, lemon oil. Those are some of my top concerns in terms of essential oils that can trigger allergic reactions.”
Before applying any oils to the skin, it’s important to receive a recommendation from your doctor. But to get you started, here are some of the most popular varieties of natural oils:
Coconut oil is easily absorbed into the skin and is known to have many health benefits, including those from vitamins E and K, as well as its antifungal and antibacterial properties. The one big exception? Along with cocoa butter, coconut oil is likely to cause breakouts. “In general, coconut oil is a great option for almost everybody, except if you have oily skin and you're acne prone, I would not use it on the face,” Katta says.
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With its heavy consistency, it is a great choice for an all-body application, Katta says. You may even want to try an olive oil cleanser or bar of soap for a clean that won’t dry out your skin.
Derived from the nuts of the African shea tree, shea butter is a tallow-like substance that is commonly found in a solid form, but it melts at body temperature, and is sometimes used as a moisturizer and hair product, says Katta, adding she hasn’t seen her patients have allergic reactions to it. Unrefined, organic shea butter can also be combined with olive oil or coconut oil to create a smoother texture for application.
Jojoba is native to Mexico and the American Southwest, where its oils have been extracted from its seeds and used medicinally by Native American tribes. “I don’t see much in the way of allergic reactions to [jojoba], either. I haven’t seen that be as popular [as some other natural oils], so I just don’t have a lot of experience with it,” Katta says.
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Made from pressed raw almonds, almond oil is full of health benefits, such as vitamin E, zinc, proteins, and potassium. It has a lighter texture than olive oil and shea butter, which many find appealing to use on the face. But Katta says that sweet almond oil can result in allergic responses, so she recommends avoiding it if you have sensitive skin.
From her experience, Katta says grapeseed oil is less commonly used for skin than the other oils, but she’s optimistic about its potential use for this purpose. “I have not seen allergic reactions to grapeseed oil,” she says. “It definitely has a number of phytochemicals that have antioxidant benefits, too, so that’s kind of intriguing.”
Extracted from the seeds of wild rose bushes, rose hip seed oil has seen a surge in popularity and is increasingly found in facial skincare products that tout moisturizing, anti-aging benefits.
Additional reporting by Deborah Shapiro.